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While not terribly bad, the 2005 Wolftrap is an awkward mish-mash of Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Viognier. The aroma swirls with black pepper and tastes of too much oak. It would be a challenge for any expert to taste it blind and say, “Yup, that’s a South African blend of red and white grapes.” My guess is that they would guess South Australia Shiraz. 8.2, not for flavour, but for lacking guts. Also, it’s too early for it to be on the shelves. Too tight, don’t drink before 2007. Around £7.50 at Oddbins.

The Glen Carlou, one of my favourite South African wine producers, 2004 Tortoise Hill Red is also a blend…predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, 69 percent…so big miss there. Syrah is in there, but not Cinsault, at 12.5 percent. Zinfandel and Merlot are there, at nine and four percent… but the big surprise is the Portuguese bad boy Tourega Nacional fills out the rest of the bottle.) With all those grapes, it’s disappointing… and, oddly, tastes South African. Berries, fruity, oaky, tannic and tight. Yeah, Yeah, Yeah. 8.0, because I expected better. Less than £8, also at Oddbins.

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