Ruinart is a Champagne house that appeals both in taste and in price. In fact, their lower priced bottlings are tremendously delicious. Unfortunately, the Blanc de Blancs (only Chardonnay) is not worth the £45 price tag. (It was a celebration.)

Other positives are the Lanson Black Label which frequents the cheapside London party scene. Not sure of the price, but it’s nice.

But, it’s the Bollinger NV that takes the cake: minerality, mainly flint, a nice, crisp profile with a touch of tarty green apple. Not to mention a decent weight and enjoyable finish: 8.8. Bollinger also continues to bubble for FOUR days after being opened. Now that’s gas.

The cabbie did add that he felt Argentina trumps Chile with its block-buster Malbec and that 2005 Ribera del Duero was going to be a very promising vintage(!).

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The 2004 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, 70 percent Merlot, 25 Cabernet Franc, 25 Cabernet Sauvignon: rich and full, still tight with tannin as it’s so young, but with power and a touch of dill, but mainly, and here is the sticking point, strong hints of limestone.

Saint Emilion 2005: strong blackberry from the year’s heat. Blockbuster vintage, better aging: 8.8.

Saint Emilion 2004: expect more floral-type flavours with weaker strengths more wines with cocoa in this year, but less potential for aging: 8.5.

Chateau Lamande 2005: A wow wine; will be a blockbuster with flaky sand tastes and a strong expression of truffle and chocolate: 9.0, easy.

Chateau La Tour Figeac 1998: a slight essence of sweaty socks, with sandalwood and toasty grains, the finish is a bit rotten but the wine is enjoyable, even with the bizarre tasting note this is…9.0.

Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2005: still a barrel sample, but on the light side for the vintage. It should be more tannic. Slight hint of raisin, with light oak, which will increase as barrel aging further softens the tannin. A strong, full body otherwise, with meaty mushroom. Good potential for 10+ aging: 8.8, for now.

But the real winner was Chateau Laniote: Always a good wine. The 1998 was a lovely, classy affair, with ripe cheese, Camembert to be more specific. The 2004 was very strong, but with a lightness on the palate, with pine nuts laced throughout. The 2005 was very high in alcohol, but could still show its lovely ripples of violets and roses… when it relaxes, expect some decent, toasty oak structure. I give the Chateau a 9.1 overall, the highest to date, for producing a product as different as it is delicious, year after year.

Can’t really explain why this is, but maybe the information on the Chateau, provided at the tasting, will give the answer. Situated on 12 acres of clay and limestone, Chateau Laniote produces 20,000 bottles per year. The blend is 85 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.

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