At any rate, the conversation turned my thoughts to the great Montepulciano d’Abruzzos going down the hatch round here: should have plenty of time to think until police find the body.

Such impressive wines, especially the 2004 Incanto. Montepulciano is an area in Tuscany that makes Sangiovese-based wines. Montepulciano is also the name of a grape grown in Abruzzo, a region in east-central Italy.

The Incanto, somewhat pricey at £10 is beautiful, with folds of chocolate and wild berries. Nice dry, old oak flavour with hints of vanilla and smoke. Really classic: 8.8.

Found a bottle of 1999 Santa Costanza (like the character in Seinfeld) Novello from Banfi – from Tuscany. Turns out it is a blend of Sangiovese and Gamay – the same grape used in Beaujolais Nouveau, that least ‘ageable’ of wines. The Sangiovese saved the wine…Aroma was grapey, the wine was grapey. But mineral notes helped make the wine unique. Really fun, the Novello. And a big surprise: 8.4.

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