The white 2005 Parducci Sauvignon Blanc. Grassy and crassy, with a citrus nose. Simple and zippy. A fun, fun wine. Could be aged in oak for awhile, though, to soften those edges: 8.5 alone; 8.7 points as part of a mixed case.

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A bottle of 2005 Italian Job Sangiovese Zinfandel…Italian Job is a grapey table wine from anywhere in Italy. It is bold and expressive, with a touch of tar, but lacks finesse. Drink this table wine now, as it will spoil hours after opening. If won in a raffle, it represents the best value for a wine one could ever hope to have. ‘The Italian Job,’ £1: 8.0.

Also, 2004 Bonterra Merlot, Mendocino County, for £8: Ripe red cherry, with a flair of cherry coke. Maybe too much French oak. Very aromatic, and a stunner for the price. Highly recommended and extremely classy for California at this price range: 8.8.

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