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20

Jun

Slow-cooked Pork Tacos à la Olla Podrida

Sean Sellers  in White Wines, Albariño, Blow the Bank, Meat & Poultry , , , , , , ,

InterWined Food
Each Friday, InterWined.com pairs one great wine with one great meal and publishes the results along with the recipe in a little feature it likes to call ‘Blow the Bank’.

Just because UK food prices are their highest in more than a decade doesn’t mean that we can’t eat well. In fact, in some ways, it might mean just the opposite.

Olla PodridaSlow-cooked Pork Tacos à la Olla PodridaOlla Podrida - Cooking on the HobSlow-cooked Pork

Here’s how: we all know that necessity is the mother of something, be it outright invention or the simply act of taking chances, as a quick search of Google will assure Mark Twain once apparently said; and when it comes to the kitchen that something is prized as culinary inspiration.

For most, if not all, of the world’s great culinary achievements – those techniques that transform ingredients into dishes that speak to our hearts as much as to our stomachs – were born of a necessary kind of culinary inspiration. From salting to smoking to pickling to stewing and offal to sausages to bean curd to…you get the picture…necessity has given us some of our most popular dishes and culinary techniques to help us see out the lean weeks and wait for the happy return of opulence and excess and imported non-seasonal fruits and vegetables.

So, in the spirit of the credit crunch, put down the ready-meal, unplug the microwave, and learn to re-embrace one-pot dinners and the hasty return of leftovers, as ‘Blow the Bank’ brings you its Slow-cooked Pork Tacos à la Olla Podrida.

And, sure it might cost more than a fiver (No offense Jamie; I’m sure shopping for spaghetti with you is very rewarding.), but it’ll definitely last a couple of meals.

Pork is a staple of the Spanish and Latin American diet, which dates back at least to the reconquista of Al-Andalus in 1492 — the year ol’ Cristóbal Colón went sailing to India and landed on the island of Hispaniola (the island divided by the nations of Haiti and the Dominican Republic).

The history of this dish isn’t that old, but it’s close. In Spanish, the words Olla Podrida literally refer to a rotten pot of meat. But names can be deceiving — especially when it comes to foodstuffs — because this dish is anything but rotten.

Cooked in a large earthenware pot, the loin of pork is slow-cooked for a couple of hours in a mix of water, roughly chopped onions, cut bulbs of garlic, and a touch of salt and pepper. Later, the pork is removed and the remaining water and ingredients discarded. In the same pot, mustard seeds, paprika, and cumin are heated in olive oil with onion. The pork loin is shredded and returned to the pot, along with a simple vegetable or wine stock, followed by red kidney beans, cannellini beans, and calasparra rice. Once the stock has evaporated, the pot is removed from the heat, re-seasoned and served on warm corn tortillas to become Slow-cooked Pork Tacos à la Olla Podrida.

A bottle of the 2006 Val do Sosego Albariño (12.5%), from Rias Baixas in Spain, available at Oddbins for £8.49, makes a wondrous pairing to this white-meat stew, its mix of apples and pears complimenting the pork as well as the corn tortilla. Pork and apples, like apples and maize are excellent pairing partners; and although there is a tad more of a floral sense on the nose and woodiness in the mouth than I would have liked, it remains light and well-balanced with a crispness that helps further perpetuate the sense of apple. That gives it a score of 8.3, based on the complicated but 100%-accurate ratings system outlined on InterWined.com’s Ratings page. Thing is, it was so close to 8.6.

(As most readers will know, InterWined’s rating system is somewhat arbitrary and largely tongue-in-cheek.)

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18

Jun

Getting Rid of Goulash

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Organic, Cabernet Sauvignon, White Wines, Chardonnay , , , , , ,

Today marks the first and, hopefully, last day I eat Hungarian Goulash.
Now, in a completely unrelated matter, two wine reviews for one Spanish producer. Actually the second wine would pair nicely with Goulash, I suspect. But I’ll never know (see first line of entry).
Family-run wine producer Albet i Noya has been around for awhile and […]

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2 comments

12

Jun

Classic Soave

Jacob Gaffney  in White Wines, Garganega , , , , ,

InterWined loves children’s birthday parties in London. At such an event last weekend, a terribly talented performer named ‘Betty Boo’ (no, not that Betty Boo) entertained the children…while we adults were provide with some liquid refreshment.
There was the Champagne, and there was some beer…but the most enjoyable moment came from sipping on the delicious and […]

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21

Apr

Back to Buffalo

Jacob Gaffney  in White Wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier , , , ,

Did you try Friday’s buffalo wing recipe? Well, I did, but without the benefit of the suggested wine. Simply put, InterWined’s recipe inspired me to experiment.
In this case, the gamble was with the widespread 2006 Jacob’s Creek ‘Three Vines’ white, £7 from Costcutter. The Three Vines offerings by Jacob’s Creek are nothing short of the […]

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17

Apr

In America

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Pinot Noir, Merlot , , , , , , ,

A big hand for Sean for coming up with some great pairings for wines and American dishes. However, I still can’t seem to come to terms with seeing the words ‘prawn’ and ‘po-boy’ in the same sentence. InterWined reckons that it’s time to offer its own advice for picking an excellent American wine.
Finding decent American […]

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10

Apr

A Tempting Tempranillo…the Olympic Torch…and the best current wine web offer

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Tempranillo, Nerello Mascalese , , , , , , , , , , ,

Watch the Olympic torch make its way around the world, and one is filled with images that just don’t go together. The journey of the flame is proving more of a divider, not a uniter. Blue-suited Chinese paramilitary, without any seeming executive powers, roughing up interlopers that are oddly obsessed with extinguishing the fire. The […]

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7

Apr

Sicilian Sunshine

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Nero d'Avola , , , , , ,

The 2006 Donna Fugata Sedara Nero d’Avola should cost around £7. And it’s everywhere. Maybe not the Sedara, but any Donna Fugata red is likely to be decent and well-priced. The wine is a pleasant violet colour, but not as deep as you may think. Most notable is the heavy blackberry and cherry presence that seems to dominate this wine, year in, year out. It’s light and delicious body equals plenty of good fun. There is also a touch of vanilla, and, inexplicably, rotating hints of pine pulp. Unusual, since the wine is aged in cement tanks…how’s that for thinking? 8.5 points

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27

Feb

Back to Bonarda

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Shiraz/Syrah, Malbec, Bonarda , , , ,

At Oddbins wine retail, there is an OK selection of Bonarda wines for under £10. It’s not that the Oddbins guys picked poorly, but more that the overall selection of Bonarda worldwide is, well, kind of lackluster. The 2006 Familia Zuccardi Reserva is an exception. It’s light in body. Lighter than you’d think given the dark color this grape exudes. There is some violet and red current and aromatic India spice, but it’s still too young to drink, since the swallow is kind of harsh. But at £8, this is a ‘drink me now’ wine. Not one for the cellar. InterWined.com doesn’t like drink-me-nows that aren’t ready: 8.4 today, 8.7 in two years — if anyone cares to cellar a £8 Bonarda for that long.

In InterWined’s opinion, Bonarda is better as a blending grape, especially with its Argentine brother-in-law Malbec. Bonarda helps smooth out the wrinkles, especially with the 2006 Trivento Amado Sur also £8. Last year the wine had more Bonarda and less Syrah, but the 2006 is broken down like so — 75% Malbec, 15% Syrah, 10% Bonarda. Trivento is pretty good at nailing its market, so expect a smooth number with vanilla and oak. The wine is plumy, of course, thanks to the Malbec; but the Bonarda also adds some plumpiness and the Syrah gracefully lends some plushiness (both ‘p’ adjectives my computer claims aren’t actually real words). A dry nice finish, but some more tannin would be nice. 8.6 points.

So the Bonarda seems to still suffer in the single-bottling category, years down the line. Hopefully in another three, the real Bonarda will finally stand up.

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25

Jan

Not So Impossible Food & Wine Pairing #1: Chips & Salsa

Sean Sellers  in Red Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Castelão, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro , , , ,

this Friday, InterWined brings you ‘Not So Impossible Food & Wine Pairing #1: Chips & Salsa’, a tip of the hat to Dr. Vino and his “Impossible Food Wine Pairings”.

In July 2007 Dr. Vino asked his readers to recommend a wine to serve alongside snack food staple and wine-pairing stumper Chips & Salsa; and at a tasting event yesterday evening, InterWined finally discovered the answer.

A panel of 12 wine experts helped identify each of the characteristics and four grapes (Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Castelão, and Cabernet Sauvignon) required to produce the 2006 Pink Elephant, Portuguese Rosé (£5 from Tesco and Morrisons).

And, while InterWined doesn’t yet know if it’s the perfect match for spicy foods, it knows that it is the absolute matchless match to Chips & Salsa, and among the only successful examples of wine by committee. Looking quite a bit like Ocean Spray Cran-Raspberry Juice on first pour is a fair description of colour, but an insult to the quality of the wine. This isn’t juice. Sure, there’s raspberry on the nose, but the flavour is more tannic and peppery, with a just of little hint of petrol aftertaste. This is a decent Rosé, make no mistake. But, it’s not until the wine (served extremely chilled) is paired, that it becomes something more substantial and worthy of real praise.

For £5, you would be hard pressed to find a better wine to serve with a bowl of Chips & salsa or Sweet Chilli Kettle Crisps (it’s a very good match for that too), when entertaining guests or slumped on the couch in front of the telly. That probably wasn’t what the Bill Rolfe and Toby Hancock from 10 International, the wine company responsible for Pink Elephant, had in mind when they decided to find a wine to pair with spicy food. (In fact, they were specifically thinking curries.) But, the two of them should be proud, regardless. Finding a matchless match to an impossible pairing is no mean feat. On it’s own: 8.0; with Chips & Salsa: peerless.

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11

Jan

Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffins

Sean Sellers  in Dessert Wine, Semillon, Blow the Bank, Desserts , , , , ,

InterWined Food
Each Friday, InterWined.com pairs one great wine with one great meal and publishes the results along with the recipe in a little feature it likes to call ‘Blow the Bank’.

This week ‘Blow the Bank’ returns to Beatrice Peltre, La Tartine Gourmande, and her Versatility in a Spinach and Sweet Potato Cake to bring you Mostly InterWined’s Own Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffins.

Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffins

For many eaters, muffins are synonymous with one meal — breakfast. But, long before the humble blueberry muffin appeared in a powder from Betty Crocker or its low fat oat cranberry cousin went on sale at Starbucks, the muffin was a tea cake and before that a bread.

So while Mostly InterWined’s Own Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffin makes an excellent breakfast muffin — and it does to be sure — it also makes a superb dessert cake and, even, a superior alternative to the more common apple sauce and potato found served alongside a nice pork loin or chop. (Don’t believe me, try it and you’ll see.)

On this occasion, InterWined chose to serve it as a dessert or pudding, as some people might prefer.

The 2006 Peter Lehmann Botrytis Semillon (12.5%), £7.99 from Oddbins for a half bottle and widely available in the US for approximately $18-$20, made for an almost perfect match. Why almost perfect? The wine is just a tad too sugary sweet. Peter Lehmann’s chief winemaker confidently proclaims the 2006 vintage its finest ever produced, and InterWined is hard pressed to disagree. This wine is fresh and, mostly, easy-to-drink. The colour is a honeyed gold, with the slight sense of honey continuing on the nose before really hitting the palate with a burst of honeyed fruit. This is wine made from bees, if ever there was one.

But, for InterWined, it all comes back to the sensation that there is just a tad too much sweetness in the wine. Normally, if one finds a dessert wine too sweet it would indicate an imbalance. Yet, in all honesty, I don’t think that there is one. The slightness of it all could equally suggest that my complaint is simply one of personal preference. (Maybe I just don’t like wine made of noble rot, as much as I thought I did.)

In terms of the pairing, what might have made this a more prefect match and probably helped to overcome any nagging sense of sweetness would have been to increase the amount of sweet potato and cheese by a few millimetres and sprinkle into the mixture a few more twists of pepper mill. But be careful when doing so, too much grated potato or cheese and the muffin will loose its very appealing lightness and become quite stodgy.

In the end, Mostly InterWined’s Own Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffin with Peter Lehmann’s Botrytis Semillon: 8.something rather impressive but equally probably rather meaningless, something Robert Parker Scale-esque like 86/100. Whatever that means.

Mostly InterWined’s Own Recipe In Full

Apple & Cinnamon Sweet Potato Muffin
(Makes six muffins)

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