The organic 2006 Limney, made by Davenport in Horsmonden, is a bargain at about £8 from the Organic Delivery company. Bone dry, light and refreshing. Zippy citrus (this might sound trite, but it’s true. Swear.) and light body make it perfect for a hot summer day; even though, this bottle was consumed huddled outside, late at night, in the pouring rain: 8.5. Made from five white grapes: Ortega, Faber, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Huxelrebe.

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The first guest brought a bottle of 1990 Carpineto Chianti Classico Reserva (primarily Sangiovese grape). Back then it went for $13 bucks, today the bottle is probably worth ten times that. It was ranked at 87 in Wine Spectator by Italy expert James Suckling. And, as usual, he is right: “Very firm and solid with complex berry, mineral and plum character. Full in body and tannins but quite refined and elegant”.

The years have since eroded the full-body and stronger tannic structure, but the wine is now extremely refined and elegant. Also there are mushrooms. Chestnut mushrooms. Probably would score 89 point on the WS scale if tasted today, but as a gift from good friends (who also cooked – spaghetti with grouper and sardines with fennel): 9.3.

Both from Denbies winery, England’s largest, the wines proved perfect for the locally sourced food. The Bacchus (grape) wine from 2004 was crisp with a hint of lemon. Grassy. Long finish. The body was a little heavy, but it was not nearly the train wreck expected. Perhaps bringing such a bad rep to the table made the wine appear more delicious. Doubt it: 8.6.

The pudding wine from Denbies is number one in one regard: the worst wine name, ever. The 2005 Surrey Gold even came in a frosted bottle, leaving the wife to first wonder aloud “who brought the Vodka?” The name, the look – Denbies, work on it.

The wine is just fine. Kinda floral (some jasmine) and easy going. Light and not too syrupy, the funny thing is that the wine finishes dry, when sweet was expected. Individual: 8.4.

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