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Liquid Refreshment

21

May

Uruguay’s National Grape

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Merlot, Tannat , , , , ,

Wine book author and well-known potty mouth, Eric Arnold, (who now serves as Deputy Editor of Forbes.com) once described the wine grape Tannat to InterWined with one single word: “Ick.”

True, the grape is a sturdy one. Grown through SouthWest France, Argentina and widely across Uruguay, Tannat can only make “well-structured” wines, which is all too often a wine label descriptor meaning “way too grapey.”

Nonetheless, the popularity of wines produced with this grape are set to grow (but not explode) as research shows that Tannat is very, very high in salubrious chemical compounds known as procyanadins, which suppress production of endothelin-1, a protein that constricts blood vessels, among other things.

2007 El Esteco Tannat, Calchaqui Valley, Argentina is not for the faint of heart. In fact, if you don’t drink red wine very often, then give it a skip. If you do, then it provides an interesting departure: the wine smells somewhat of a dirty ashtray. Now, you’ve got to love wine to like that. The wine is also thick and juicy with loads of spice and spine; just like a logger in a bar. The wine is also “well-structured.” £6.49 at Marks & Spencer. 8.4 points.

2007 Pizzorno Tannat/Merlot, Canalones, Uruguay is a lot more broadly likeable. And the new labels on the ‘07s are a well-needed improvement to the overall presentation of the wine. The wine is still way hearty and would be nice with game or wild foul. If you grew up where I did, this wine would be the sure pick for pairing with roasted squirrel. The addition of Merlot smooths out the wrinkles from the Tannat. The pluminess adds a decent note to the blackberry jam profile. £6.49 at Waitrose. 8.8 points.

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Andrew
Andrew said: May 26th, 2008 at 7:22 am

I’ve sampled a few Tannats, some of which were rather good. A Tannat rosé from Uruguay I sampled at last weeks Wine Fair was truely terrible. Dusty, dry, fruitless, horrid…

Jacob Gaffney
Jacob Gaffney said: May 27th, 2008 at 10:15 am

Funny that! I sampled a pink Tannat from Uruguay at last year’s LIWSF and found it to taste the same way…

Thanks for the comments.

Allan Victoria
Allan Victoria said: May 29th, 2008 at 9:27 pm

I tried ‘Alcyone’ Tannat dessert wine from winery Vinedo de los Vientos, Uruguay. Well balanced with good acidity. Think marshmallow, hot chocolate with black cherry and vanilla. Long finish!! Try it!!

Jacob
Jacob said: May 30th, 2008 at 10:13 am

What a great suggestion! Thanks Allan.

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