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Liquid Refreshment

InterWined is no longer much of a beer drinker, especially in London.

A recent jaunt to New York and New Jersey represented the first trip to the United States in six years. And who could guess, that in that time, Americans have become relatively sophisticated beer drinkers?

This isn’t even to mention the superior wines by the glass in America. For $12, for instance, at a Hyatt hotel of all places, one gets a choice of several outstanding wines by the glass. In this case, the 2006 Erath Pinot Noir from Oregon. Served in the proper wine glass for Pinot Noir, it should be mentioned. Elegant and stunning. But the U.S. has always offered far superior wines (both in quality and quantity) by the glass in chain bars and pubs.

But even at dives serving horrible food, the beer choices were well beyond Bud, Bud Light, Miller. At one spot, for less than $6, a pint of Magic Hat dark lager was suggested, on tap, to pair with my rosemary-encrusted pork chop with lobster tail. It was one of many suggestions this hole in the wall had for its customers. And it tasted so good, InterWined found it depressing. Depressing because beer is so bad back in Britain.

A beverage analyst for Fitch Ratings recently put out a report that, in the wake of the smoking ban, pubs needed to diversify in order to survive. This is likely to take the form of breakfast offers and more child-friendly environments. In rural areas, little country shops may open adjacent to the pub in order to bring punters in.

But of all these changes, the simplest improvement never crossed anyone’s mind: stop serving crap beer.

The big drinks companies have placed a rather effective stranglehold on the market so that our choices are not based on styles, as in the U.S. Instead, we are forced to choose between several horrible brands that all taste basically the same way.

Blind taste Kronenberg, Carlsberg, Foster’s, Stella, etc. and see if you can guess which is which.

There is nothing special or original about beers in British pubs.

And until the servicing model wakes up to try something different, the trend of pub closures will continue. And it won’t bother me one bit.

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Admin
Admin said: May 1st, 2008 at 2:50 pm

While a part of me wholly agrees with you, another part simply cannot and will not.

For one, I agree with you that the Americans are getting more sophisticated in their beer selection. No doubt, they too are tired of drinking bottles of Bud.

I also agree that the big distributors like Bass pretty much dominate the market and dictate the stock.

This is where I disagree: if you look around, you will find that there are a number of bars and pubs in London that serve an excellent selection of beers, from the Belgium greats to the international boutique micro brews.

Remind me to take you to one… Until then, I’ll enjoy a bottle of Scotland’s Innis & Gunn.

Jacob
Jacob said: May 1st, 2008 at 2:55 pm

The number of bars with decent beer selections are few and far between when compared to the multitudes of others serving ‘daft draft’…

The places you speak of, are they mainly chains, like ‘Belgo,’ or primarily independents?

thirstforwine
thirstforwine said: May 1st, 2008 at 5:52 pm

of course, you only mention the lagers - you should be out seeking the real ale pubs.

I’m not a big consumer of them mself, but they are the “differentiator” that pubs ought to be looking for

the reason they cannot do it is that staff training is so awful, because retention is so bad, because pay is low and loyalty doesn’t exist … except for a few locations.

the US has, possibly counter-intuitively, more independent outlets (whether by state or locally), whilst the UK is totally dominated by chains hell bent on profit maximisation

but if you can find a place selling real ale (check out the CAMRA approved sites) you’ll get much greater variation and authenticity

Alex
Alex said: May 1st, 2008 at 6:11 pm

I can’t speak for London but Leeds at least has many excellent pubs serving excellent beers in excellent nick. North won The Observer Food Monthly’s Best Place to Drink award a couple of years back and has a fantastic range of world beers in the bottle, European beers on draft, and always three local ales on hand pull. Other luminaries of the drinking scene are Mr Foley’s, the Palace and the Victoria. Granted, a lot of these pubs also serve Carling/Fosters/whatever - but they also make sure that the ‘real’ stuff is looked after.

My personal favourite (at the moment!) - Arcadia, in Headingley. No crap beer at all and both German beers and real ales on draft, world beers in bottle - something for everyone!

Jacob
Jacob said: May 1st, 2008 at 6:15 pm

Hey Rob, thanks for clearing some of that stuff up…

Granted, I’m no expert in this field. We had some reservations about running the piece for that reason, but Sean said, ‘let’s see what happens…’

I guess my complaint still remains: why must I search for these places?

Why can’t all these brilliant pubs be located next door to my house?

Sadly, my local closed recently, and it is a blight on my street — all boarded up and painted brown… but then it closed for reasons unrelated to beer selection. Turns out it was too rowdy and the landlord had simply had enough.

Perhaps a selection of lagers helps fuel uncivilised behaviour. But that is a whole other blog entry.

See you Tuesday.

Jacob
Jacob said: May 1st, 2008 at 6:22 pm

Well, Alex, that’s it, InterWined is moving to Leeds!

What you describe is exactly what I feel this town lacks… so the piece would probably be better titled: ‘The Lousy Lagers of London.’

Right now, I have a bottle of Innis & Gunn, as per Sean’s advice, and find it truly outstanding. The nice vanilla hints are a surprise to me.

But the bottle seems too small.

Guess there’s no pleasing some people.

jpg3123
jpg3123 said: May 1st, 2008 at 9:01 pm

In the States, the Northeast is certainly ahead of the curve when it comes to this. The trends will eventually trickle down. But, don’t underestimate the power of “Bud” as they are getting into this game as well. They are, afterall, the number 1 seller in America.
Any time a local pub closes, it hurts the neighborhood and the local economy.
Hate to see that…

ryan
ryan said: May 2nd, 2008 at 10:40 am

I miss American beer! I miss British beer! I live in Spain, we have no beer worth drinking! So while I understand your lament, there are plenty of British beers that I would gladly trade my Iberian piss water for….Cheers,

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