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Bad News for Brunello di Montalcino

Jacob Gaffney  in News , , , , , ,

A political battle over the regulation of Italy’s famed Brunello di Montalcino has blocked the shipment of hundreds of thousands of bottles of wine and effectively holds the region’s leading producers hostage in a paperwork prison. Brunello di Montalcino is a popular wine from Tuscany, though it is unloved by some, for its smooth tannin and sometime aggressive fruit forward structure (the same reasons why it is so popular). Brunello di Montalcino’s are expensive wines that can be consumed early with pleasure, but benefit from proper aging. And now the wines are coming under more scrutiny.

The magistrate of Siena, a politically appointed judicial authority, has questioned the controls exercised by the consortium of Brunello di Montalcino, which governs the stipulations of how this wine, is made in both the vineyard and the cellar. Authorities are scanning thousands of documents, including winemaker notes, harvest and bottling records, consorzio registrations and DOCG stamps. If the slightest discrepancy is found, even if subject to interpretation and explanation, the existing stocks of the 2003 vintage Brunello, the year in question, are sequestered from distribution. Stocks already on store shelves and restaurant cellars are not affected.

“The situation has quickly become political and threatens the commerce of innumerable small businesses and the pleasure of millions of consumers around the world,” noted Marc Goodrich, Chief Operating Officer of Banfi Vintners, America’s leading importer of Brunello di Montalcino. “In fact, the quality of Brunello that the wine world has come to rely on is still very much intact, and the integrity of its leading producers is the core of this very special denomination. The promise of Brunello to the consumer remains valid and unquestioned, but has been caught in a crossfire between warring factions in what amounts to a political disgrace.”

According to Mr. Goodrich, the majority of Brunello producers are likely to fall under what he describes as “this intense and misguided scrutiny,” with sale of the 2003 vintage suspended, potentially for several months if not longer.

“We will not know what really happened until all the political dust settles and the authorities retreat,” he said. “But in the meantime, they have put at risk the commercial, social and governmental reputation of all Italy.”

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