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Feb

Back to Bonarda

Jacob Gaffney  in Red Wines, Shiraz/Syrah, Malbec, Bonarda , , , ,

Back in 2005, the wine blog Basic Juice posed a question on a grape with little history and a typically unimpressive performance in the export markets. The title of the June 17 piece was, Will the Real Bonarda Please Stand Up?

That was nearly three years ago, and a multitude of blog posts since then have done little to help answer that question on Argentina’s most extensively planted grape. Popular yes, but Malbec, it is not.

At Oddbins wine retail, there is an OK selection of Bonarda wines for under £10. It’s not that the Oddbins guys picked poorly, but more that the overall selection of Bonarda worldwide is, well, kind of lackluster. The 2006 Familia Zuccardi Reserva is an exception. It’s light in body. Lighter than you’d think given the dark color this grape exudes. There is some violet and red current and aromatic India spice, but it’s still too young to drink, since the swallow is kind of harsh. But at £8, this is a ‘drink me now’ wine. Not one for the cellar. InterWined.com doesn’t like drink-me-nows that aren’t ready: 8.4 today, 8.7 in two years — if anyone cares to cellar a £8 Bonarda for that long.

In InterWined’s opinion, Bonarda is better as a blending grape, especially with its Argentine brother-in-law Malbec. Bonarda helps smooth out the wrinkles, especially with the 2006 Trivento Amado Sur also £8. Last year the wine had more Bonarda and less Syrah, but the 2006 is broken down like so — 75% Malbec, 15% Syrah, 10% Bonarda. Trivento is pretty good at nailing its market, so expect a smooth number with vanilla and oak. The wine is plumy, of course, thanks to the Malbec; but the Bonarda also adds some plumpiness and the Syrah gracefully lends some plushiness (both ‘p’ adjectives my computer claims aren’t actually real words). A dry nice finish, but some more tannin would be nice. 8.6 points.

So the Bonarda seems to still suffer in the single-bottling category, years down the line. Hopefully in another three, the real Bonarda will finally stand up.

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RichardA
RichardA said: February 27th, 2008 at 2:54 pm

I must disagree that Bonarda is best as a blending grape and not on its own. I have enjoyed several Bonarda from Argentina on their own. Most of what is available are easy-drinking, inexpensive wines ($15US or less) but with character.

There is variety in the various brands, some smoother than others, some more rustic than others. They are not all the same. I have also found a fair amount of complexity in several of the wines, especially for such inexpensive wines.

I have even very much enjoyed a higher end Bonarda, the 2002 Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Limited Edition Bonarda ($40-$50 US). I would compare that Bonarda to any Malbec at that price point.

Sean
Sean said: February 27th, 2008 at 4:00 pm

Hi Richard,

You say that you’ve enjoyed many easy-drinking Bonarda with character, in the $15 or approximately £6 range. What do you mean by character?

I’m not a big Bonarda drinker. You seem to be very familiar with them. What’s the appeal for you?

RichardA
RichardA said: February 27th, 2008 at 5:56 pm

To me, character means they are not one-dimensional wines like many wines at that price range can be. They stand out due to their own interesting mix of flavors.

The appeal for me is their taste, character and value. I like the fact you can have a fruitier Bonarda or one with smoky undertones. In general, I find them a bit lighter than Malbecs (though I do enjoy Malbecs as well).

Once of the best Bonarda values I have found was the 2002 Bodega Jacques & Francois Lurton Bonarda, which was only $6 US. I would be hard pressed to find another wine at that price with the same complexity.

I have shared Bonardas with family and friends and most of them have very much enjoyed the wines.

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