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Liquid Refreshment

Pecorino is a hard Italian cheese made from sheep’s milk. Pecorino that is procuded in Sardinia and Sicily has also been found to have anti-aging properties when eaten.

But there is a little-known form of Pecorino, which may be considered even healthier and deserves some hyping — meet pecorino, the grape. The grape Pecorino is grown across four districts in central Italy. Bottlings are rare to find, especially in the States, but worth the look, if only for the dumbfounded expression you are sure to get from your stuck-up, know-it-all wine merchant.

Drop it like a bomb. Just go in there and say, ‘give me a bottle of Pecorino,’ and when they reply, ‘you mean the cheese?’ — respond appropriately.

That is, use both hands to cover your mouth and giggle uncontrollably until you pee your pants.

That’ll teach them.

2006 Collefrisio Pecorino, produced in Terre di Chieti (an area in the Italian county of Abruzzo), £7.50. Medium bodied, which turns a little heavy on the tongue the next day. Luscious and thick, with a long, dry finish. Perfect with seafood and pasta. Love the bright acidity. Different and delicious, look for hints of melon and a touch of Trappist ale-like nuances: 8.8 points.

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