Jul

A Tale of Two Dishes (Tough to Pair)

Jacob Gaffney in White Wines, Riesling, Viognier 2004, Boulders, California, Germany, Marks Spencer, Mineralstein, Mosel, The Co Op, USA

Some good stuff last week. InterWined is impressed and getting addicted. Addicted to your love!

Two dishes, tough to pair. Fish and chips and spicy Buffalo wings. InterWined asked around and one wine merchant had the audacity to suggest that “if you are eating fish and chips, chances are, you can’t afford wine.” Nonsense.

Nonetheless, fish and chips are both salty and savory (think of the malt vinegar). Also mushy and heavy. Too much is the norm and a stuffed, aching belly is almost certainly the outcome to a fish and chippy dinner.

First of all, a round of applause to The Co-op, the one mainstream supermarket that puts its entire selection of white wines in the cooler. Of course, when tasting white wine, it should be at room temperature, chilling it retards the flavor to a degree. A standard California table wine, The Boulders Viognier 2004, goes for £5. Viognier is an ancient lady, common in the Rhone. Needs sun as it is prone to rot.

The Boulders isn’t very floral, as one would expect when the grape is grown in America or Australia. A probably a bit too heavy for such a heavy dish. But Interwined has a big belly, so here we go: Greasy and tart, some hints of orange zing, quick finish, but heavy in body. Perfect with fish and chips. By itself: 8.2.

Spice is another monster. A wine high in alcohol would be throwing more fuel on the fire, literally. Drink a shot of spirits after eating a chilli and see if steam doesn’t actually plume out of your ears.

German Riesling is the fall back guy for difficult food pairings. 2004 Mineralstein Riesling, from between the Mosel and Rhein rivers, around £7 from Marks and Spencer. The low alcohol, nice apricot aroma and peach-smartie type flavor really enhance the spice on Buffalo chicken wings (what spice is that, anyway?). The wine itself is a gem, dry and flinty, with a unbelievably long finish…
If Cricket were a wine sport, Mineralstein would be it’s star. Perfect wine Buffalo chicken wings: 8.6.

(Note: neither wine was actually paired with either dish.)

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Tasting Notes