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Archive for February 2007

Santa Margarita Prosecco: Sparkling wine produced in the Veneto, Italy, outside Venice. Brilliant, simple and crisp, a perfect start. Nice, easy bubbles, but a bit pricey, probably would retail for £10, a lot for Prosecco: 8.4.

Margues de Monistrol, 2004, Cava: Sparking wine from Penedes, around Barcelona. Slightly lemony, with a hint of green olive, a bit acidic, but a bargain at £8 retail: 8.4.

Most preferred: the supermarket Champagne! Tesco Premier Cru at about £15 a bottle. This is a sparkling wine engineered in a laboratory to best fit the British notion of what Champagne should taste like. Almonds and Italian-style biscuit. A smooth oakiness, with plenty of bubbles. Also, a little too sweet. This makes people, Brits in particular, think they are savouring something more then they really are…it works though, wining the 2005 Wine International award for Best non-vintage Champagne, beating out some French contenders that sell their wines for much, much more. Would score higher if not so predictable: 8.5.

The tasting for the Islington Conservative Party was meant to be the best ever, and it was. Sparkling wine tasting: What could go wrong? Well, having less than 20 people showing up…at any rate, it was a blast. Yours truly is working the speaking circuit like a Clinton. Large, in-charge and, usually, full of crap.

Just kidding.

The night was tinged by politics of course, but what do we really care about? No, let’s talk about something that benefits us. (May have just lost that contract.)

Santa Margarita Prosecco: Sparkling wine produced in the Veneto, Italy, outside Venice. Brilliant, simple and crisp, a perfect start. Nice, easy bubbles, but a bit pricey, probably would retail for £10, a lot for Prosecco: 8.4.

Marques de Monistrol, 2004, Cava: Sparking wine from Penedes, around Barcelona. Slightly lemony, with a hint of green olive, a bit acidic, but a bargain at £8 retail: 8.4.

Most preferred: the supermarket Champagne! Tesco Premier Cru at about £15 a bottle. This is a sparkling wine engineered in a laboratory to best fit the British notion of what Champagne should taste like. Almonds and Italian-style biscuit. A smooth oakiness, with plenty of bubbles. Also, a little too sweet. This makes people, Brits in particular, think they are savouring something more then they really are…it works though, wining the 2005 Wine International award for Best non-vintage Champagne, beating out some French contenders that sell their wines for much, much more. Would score higher if not so predictable: 8.5.

During a ‘meeting’ last night, enjoyed the 2004 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot from Margaret River, Australia. My esteemed colleague called it ’spicy.’ But spicy is really only an OK descriptor, for this wine is better than that. It’s not aromatic spices, cardamom, fenugreek, etc. More like very slight cinnamon or clove. Perfect balance, mouth-feel, earthy expression. Almost took the ouch out of the four-time mark-up at the wine bar: 9.0 (£24).

La Baume 2005 Merlot, South of France, £5.50, has a tasting note on the front label: Dark Cherry and Spicy(!), Fruit Characters, soft and round. A wonderful idea, if completely untrue. Actually it is vile, tense and terse. No balance and burns the throat. Smells like Teen Spirit: 7.6.

Now the 2004 Palandri Estate Cabernet Merlot, West Australia, Reserve, £8…that’s much better: Black olive, blackberry, oak and dill. Smooth in alcohol but bright in feeling. Dark colour. Inky texture. Great for the price; and, you know, for having one glass too many as its hangover after-burps will go well with your morning coffee: 8.7.

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The 2004 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle, 70 percent Merlot, 25 Cabernet Franc, 25 Cabernet Sauvignon: rich and full, still tight with tannin as it’s so young, but with power and a touch of dill, but mainly, and here is the sticking point, strong hints of limestone.

Saint Emilion 2005: strong blackberry from the year’s heat. Blockbuster vintage, better aging: 8.8.

Saint Emilion 2004: expect more floral-type flavours with weaker strengths more wines with cocoa in this year, but less potential for aging: 8.5.

Chateau Lamande 2005: A wow wine; will be a blockbuster with flaky sand tastes and a strong expression of truffle and chocolate: 9.0, easy.

Chateau La Tour Figeac 1998: a slight essence of sweaty socks, with sandalwood and toasty grains, the finish is a bit rotten but the wine is enjoyable, even with the bizarre tasting note this is…9.0.

Chateau Fleur Cardinale 2005: still a barrel sample, but on the light side for the vintage. It should be more tannic. Slight hint of raisin, with light oak, which will increase as barrel aging further softens the tannin. A strong, full body otherwise, with meaty mushroom. Good potential for 10+ aging: 8.8, for now.

But the real winner was Chateau Laniote: Always a good wine. The 1998 was a lovely, classy affair, with ripe cheese, Camembert to be more specific. The 2004 was very strong, but with a lightness on the palate, with pine nuts laced throughout. The 2005 was very high in alcohol, but could still show its lovely ripples of violets and roses… when it relaxes, expect some decent, toasty oak structure. I give the Chateau a 9.1 overall, the highest to date, for producing a product as different as it is delicious, year after year.

Can’t really explain why this is, but maybe the information on the Chateau, provided at the tasting, will give the answer. Situated on 12 acres of clay and limestone, Chateau Laniote produces 20,000 bottles per year. The blend is 85 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.

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At any rate, the conversation turned my thoughts to the great Montepulciano d’Abruzzos going down the hatch round here: should have plenty of time to think until police find the body.

Such impressive wines, especially the 2004 Incanto. Montepulciano is an area in Tuscany that makes Sangiovese-based wines. Montepulciano is also the name of a grape grown in Abruzzo, a region in east-central Italy.

The Incanto, somewhat pricey at £10 is beautiful, with folds of chocolate and wild berries. Nice dry, old oak flavour with hints of vanilla and smoke. Really classic: 8.8.

Found a bottle of 1999 Santa Costanza (like the character in Seinfeld) Novello from Banfi – from Tuscany. Turns out it is a blend of Sangiovese and Gamay – the same grape used in Beaujolais Nouveau, that least ‘ageable’ of wines. The Sangiovese saved the wine…Aroma was grapey, the wine was grapey. But mineral notes helped make the wine unique. Really fun, the Novello. And a big surprise: 8.4.

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Came across an interesting one: called Monastrell IX. No brand. Just a Spanish grape, Monastrell (Mourvèdre in France, Mataro in New World) with one selling point: it’s 15 percent alcohol by volume. To sell based solely on the fuzzy factor, seems just plain wrong. And it’s not cheap, £5 at the Co-Op. Certainly it would be awful, but some fool has to blog it, doesn’t he?

Telling you; that wine was so bad, it took forever to finish – every last drop.

Also had two great Montepulciano d’Abruzzos. Thinking about doing a few reviews on these wines: Who likes Italian?

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