While trying the Cefalicchio Chardonnay from a Biodynamic consortium in Puglia, declared that the wine smelled like steamed bananas… expected someone to shout, “You’re bananas.” But the only return fire was nodding heads of agreement.

Aufidus 2004 proved to be the star. Not organic, but rustic. Winemaker tried to imitate a Roman-style wine: swords and sandals to pair with rape and pillaging; a robust, rustic wine, like drinking a farm. Smelled of manure, which some people didn’t like for some reason – and wet leaves.

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The 2004 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc is a stunner, £7. Good with anything, even spicy sausage: tropical fruits on the nose; dry finish, light on the tongue. Two days later, the wine had mellowed to being almost buttery. It was smoother than Brazilian legs during Carnival. 8.5.

2001 was not so good for California and Bonterra’s Cabernet from that year shows it. Watery and thin, little identity, no wonder many bottles of it are available to buy now – though it’s not a complete wash-up. It was drinkable as a table wine. Serve with dinner. 7.7

Same for 2004 Valdevieso Merlot. It holds it own, but can’t hold your attention. 7.7.

The ‘Taste the Difference’ 2003 Connawarra Cabernet from the grocer Sainsbury’s was on sale for half-off, £4.

The fumes alone are flammable. Hard to taste anything else when a wine is pimped out with so much silly sauce. A day later, ripe fruits, mainly blackberry, tinge of oak, still strong. Price was right though. Eight pounds would be a joke. 7.0.

Finally the 2003 Heartland Petit Verdot from the Limestone Coast of Australia…The Heartland gave off wild aromas violets, black cherry but still very rustic, like an old leather belt that will never give up holding onto pants. Also a bit of rust and a hint of mint.
8.9 points, mainly for controlling a late harvest grape most people won’t bother with.

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Penfolds Organic blend is a tidy number, £9.

After a week of disappointing Australians, finally a glimmer of hope: ripe fruits, smooth texture, little overt sweetness and a pleasing, yet short, finish. It used to be £7, but as its popularity grows, so will the price tag. 8.7.

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Cono Sur Pinot Noir (It’s not bad, but not nearly as good as some blogs would have you believe)…

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Quick note: I will be voicing some characters on today’s afternoon play, The Tank Man, on BBC Radio Four.
Enjoy.

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After publishing the Tea Time blog, an email hit my inbox from one of my sources.
After interviewing Matthew Brown of Echo Chamber, a company that spies on businesses for other businesses for an article for Wine Spectator, he then read my entry, and responded. I have always told people that when I’m wrong I will […]

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Now, about the show, several prospects are up in the air this week. I will wait until ‘it’ happens, or likely doesn’t happen, before filling you in.
Instead, an anecdote. The Times Foodie-at-large, Tony Turnbull, devoted his weekly column to the hard-working Tea tasters at Twinnings brew HQ. According to Turnbull, the team taste 700 blends […]

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The Marks and Sparks white Burgundy 2004 and San Tommasi ‘Giani’ Sicilian white; both served at a friend’s finally-off-of-probation celebration. Both were good bargains, excellent and crisp. Both were served cold and felt proper, and tasted too similar, coming not only from different countries, different climates and different soils.

Also, three nights were devoted to three bottles of Bonterra Organic 2004 Shiraz Carignan Sangiovese.

All three bottles were great, with or without food, fresh and clean.

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Started with (and these are all 2004s) a Shiraz Merlot blend… I’m reluctant to name names here; but it’s a big producer (aren’t they all from down under?) Initially it tasted a bit rusty, unpleasant, but after an hour or so, it became decent enough to drink. The bottle was left unfinished.

Then it was a Shiraz-Viognier. Not a typical blend, but still remarkable similar to the previous evening. Again, not finished. It also burned my throat.

I drank a Yalumba. You see, for me, a true wine should give the drinker an ironic feeling: a contradiction where the wine washes away the stress of the day and relaxes, whilst still enabling the drinker to feel invigorated and alive. No, this wine… this wine… just made me feel WEIRD. The next day, my head hurt.

I capped the Australian tour with a Rosemount 100 percent Shiraz.

The label was shouting ‘I’ve been designed to grab your attention, and hold it, so you don’t care if I’m any good on the inside.’ Luckily, by mid-week, I was decanting the wines and letting them sit for an hour before trying. This burned off the alcohol and brought out the tell-tale spiciness of the Shiraz. Spiciness?

I just grabbed a cold bottle of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from Concha y Toro screw cap (superior to cork when it comes to a ‘drink now’ status). It was lovely, crisp, almost the colour of water.

I went into the store and grabbed another bottle, same shelf, same place… same COLOUR. Only when I got it home did I notice it was the Chardonnay. But the label looks exactly the same! And how can a Chardonnay not retain any of its straw-like hue? It was a decent wine, but c’mon guys.

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Today, my friends, was a day of complete rejection, capping a week of almost daily, brutal kicks to the crotch. Last week began typically enough. The weather in England returned to grey, and not a moment to soon, all of the sunshine was beginning to make me angry. Yes, a nice steady drizzle is the […]

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